Shop signs that are more than signatures or representations: they are proud proclamations of leadership, or at least talent. They are tokens of the ingenuity, grace and elegance typical of Milan's way of doing business in the past. Follow us on a brief, nostalgic tour through the proud nobility of its business icons, banners from bygone days of the 'made in Italy' style.
OTTICA ARNALDO CHIERICHETTI

Business optics

Arnaldo Chierichetti opened his optician and photography store in 1914. The store remained rooted to the old cross-roads between Corso di Porta Romana and Corso di Porta Vigentina despite several moves (the last of which after it was bombed). The current shop sign dates back to 1945. Loyalty to tradition and passion for innovation have always gone hand in hand in Arnaldo's work over the years, and in his daughter Elda's too. The store has maintained a link with the city for ninety years, enjoying a remarkable cultural promotion role for business activity. The store features a display of cameras and a fine period cabinet showcasing theatre binoculars, ancient eyeglasses and optical instruments, clear evidence of Arnaldo and Elda's good taste, research and passion for some of the aspects of their business. An attractive book which Dr Cristian Scotti, the current manager and member of the executive committee, is especially proud to show us, does the rest.


GIOVANNI GALLI

Word of mouth tastes good

The Giovanni Galli confectionery and chocolate store specialises in artisanal products since 1911, handcrafting marrons glacés (glazed chestnuts), cherry-filled chocolates, pralines and marzipan. The Milanese love marrons glacés, and creating them is an art with strict rules: first you cook them in sugar syrup for ten days, then you cover them with a thin glaze (which mustn't smother the chestnut's flavour) and finally you bake them. 'Today we still follow our great-grandfather's recipes,' says Federico Galli, the fourth-generation owner. 'Our products are hand-made using quality ingredients, and rigorously preservatives-fee. Damaging them would be an unforgivable risk.' He adds: 'I studied economics, but university doesn't reflect the reality of our business. We're artisans to the core. Expanding might mean adulterating the brand's and the store's identity.' No-nonsense, that's Federico. To the noise of advertising he still prefers the whisper of word of mouth. It's more reliable and durable.


GIN ROSA

History of an aperitif, and its temple

The bar was born, according to some, as 'Leone Bottiglieria' (Leone drink store) in about 1860. It then took the name of 'Caffé Canetta', from the name of its next proprietor, also the inventor of the first house aperitif: the Costumé Canetta. At the start of the XXth century, Luigi Donini, who created the Mistura Donini (Donini mix), gave the bar a whole new look, installing coffee machines and a modern counter. In 1931, the Marangione family took over the business and christened the old Donini mix Gin Rosa (Pink gin), giving the bar its current name and sign. The legendary Gin Rosa mix, whose secret blend is exclusively patented worldwide, is drank on its own or used as a base for countless cocktails. Above all, you can only drink it here, as the many illustrious Milanese patronising the bar know well. From 1999 the business is managed by the De Luca family, who are passionate about the tradition of a venue that has a place in the city's history.


MITAROTONDA

The sound of passion

Mitarotonda put up its own shop sign in 1987, perpetuating the historic tradition of the legendary Gallini store, opened in 1888. 'Gallini was a temple of music. I used to walk in on tiptoe,' says Paola Mitarotonda, the first woman to join the Italian Association of Piano Tuners, and the current store's owner. 'Taking over the business was a dream and an honour, as well as an irresistible folly,' In 2009, when the rental cost became prohibitive, Paola relocated to the end of the street and downsized the sign, but kept the original atmosphere and furniture. The store features six hundred walnut wood drawers, containing scores for about 28,000 titles. Mitarotonda sells, hires out and tunes pianos, guitars, violins and cellos. You can find all kinds of accessories here (metronomes, music stands, music paper and albums) and advice if you need it. 'I love my pianos and I admire musicians. Music is a labour and a blessing.' And Paola's tempo is allegro moderato.


SARTORI ICE-CREAMS

The select few

The story of Andrea Sartori, the ice-cream shop founder, sounds like that of the stereotypical eager dreamer. Instead it's true. As soon as he came to Milan from Treviso, in the North East, Andrea worked as a jack-of-all-trades in an ice-cream shop. He took to the business, worked on it, and in 1937 he bought a two-wheeled cart from which he sold his own ice-cream. The cart became a kiosk, which in 1947 turned into the current premises. The clientele for Andrea and his wife Stella grew, and in the post-war years his son Giorgio joined the business. Today it is run by Andrea's nephew, Anthony. The shop sign was altered only as the need arose. The ice-creams were never altered: they are hand-made and creamy, as tradition demands. 'Our customers eat what we'd provide to our own children,' declares Anthony. 'We know and select all of our ice-creams' ingredients. We're not interested in trends and syrups.' The flavours are the classic (select) few, no frills, and the granitas are to die for. Oh, Sartori!


MUTINELLI

Hold your hat up high

An 1888 Liberty-style shop sign leads us into Milan's oldest hat shop. The shop is still located in the original premises and owned by the same family, and still features period floors and furniture. Above all, it showcases great walls of hats in all styles and materials: beanies, caps, berets, coppola flat caps and top hats. In felt, fabric, leather, straw or fur. 'I suffer from encirclement syndrome,' says the owner, gesturing towards the fashionable street outside. 'Sometimes foreigners think they've walked into a museum and ask if the hats are for sale.' Mr Matteo is passionate but realistic. 'Family businesses are destined to extinction. Children can choose jobs that are different from their parents', and who can afford training any more?' He continues: 'Even if Italian hats are the best in the world, the small artisanal workshops that produce them cannot cope with industrial costs and strategies.' Business is business, indeed. But hang on in there, Matteo. With your hat held up high.


FOGLIA PHARMACY

Apothecaries 2.0

Milan's third-oldest pharmacy was founded in 1835 by the Foglia family, on premises formerly occupied by a 'pharmaceutical store with adjoining workshop.' The façade of the elegant XVIIth century building where the pharmacy is located bears witness to this. It still features marble bas-reliefs with images of renowned chemists and scientists. The external inscriptions in gold were instead modified by the owners before the current ones. In the last eight years the pharmacy has continued trading thanks to Director Dr Paolo Vigo and his partners. 'Our galenical laboratory is always busy. We prepare herbal products, personalised drugs and our very own vegan-inspired dermocosmetics line, not tested on animals,' explains Dr Vigo. 'In our pharmacy, the galenical pharmacopoeia tradition combines with state-of-the-art research to meet our customers' new requirements. We dispense drugs, of course, but above all care and advice. Nowadays the chemist has all but taken over from the traditional GP.' True indeed, doctor!


GRECCHI LUIGI CONFECTIONERY STORE

Fragrant craftsmanship

As you walk along Via Piero della Francesca, in the Sempione neighbourhood, you may be literally blown over by the most mouth-watering fragrance on earth: the blend of short-crust pastry and creams of all varieties, typical of artisanal confectionery. Luigi Grecchi's confectionery store, with its reassuring sign in a serif font, opened in 1959. The business is family-managed, now by his son Antonio, who works with the true dedication of a born confectioner. 'I won't compromise on quality and originality,' he tells us. 'They're something we're proud of, and they're always worth the effort. In crisis times too.' Antonio must be proud of his business: he works from twelve to fifteen hours every day, pampering an increasingly demanding clientele. 'It's such a pleasure to see them smile,' Antonio says. 'Especially at Christmas, when we concoct all sorts of customised hampers, chocolates and leavened dough cakes; the 'panettoni', Milan's typical cake, the 'veneziane'...' We have to cut his list short, it's too mouth-watering.


COMORETTO

Light bulbs and resistance

Ms Ada Comoretto, 88, owns the electrical supplies store opened by her father since 1943. But what makes her a true 'resistor' is the fact that the shop is located in Corso Como. For those who aren't aware of it, this is the new heart of Milan's nightlife. Besieged by sparkling boutiques and hipster venues, the Comoretto shop sign (which was remade exactly as it was only because it was falling to pieces) inspires a kind of tenderness. However, despite those who want to buy the shop to turn it into yet another bar, Ada keeps on selling light-bulbs and the kind of odds and ends that are impossible to find elsewhere. And she still doesn't accept credit cards. 'Corso Como isn't like a neighbourhood any more,' she says, 'neighbourly relations are non-existent because shop assistants come and go, they don't own the shops. On the other hand, this, is my baby.' Ada is proud, especially of the customers who come to see her.. to have a chat.


PETTINAROLI

Pride in tradition

Pettinaroli's current shop sign dates back to the end of the 1950s. Inside the store you can still find the original 1881 signs. The business was born as a stationery store, with a typography and binding laboratory annexed to it. Over the years, it has printed business cards, wedding, christening and holy communion invitations, using sophisticated paper and processes for the Milanese people's most significant events. Mr Francesco, named after his founder great-grandfather, is fond of the term 'stationery', even though he doesn't handle much of it: smart leather-bound notebooks (oddly enough, they sell very well), and a few unconventional gift items: all of them coming from small, traditional Milanese workshops. Mr Francesco adores antique prints, especially geographical ones. 'There's a whole world of devotees, cartographers and collectors who come to visit me,' he says smiling, 'specialisation protects against the economic crisis.' But his love for Milan's typographical tradition must have helped too.


PICCOLO WATCHES AND JEWELLERY

An ancient, rare craft

The Piccolo Jewellery opened in 1918 (as the shop sign itself boasts), inside a historic building in the heart of the city. In 1986 Mr Tommasi, the owner, offered the business to a young, passionate watch-maker. Ivano Piccolo accepted, and has been happy about it ever since. He makes a point of saying that his shop is a true little museum for antique jewellery, made of precious materials as well as 'alternative' ones he hunts for tenaciously. His store showcases some rare 1940s tools: a hand-operated lathe, a pair of scales, a chest of drawers containing watch supplies. Because Mr Piccolo not only sells highly certified watches, he also repairs them! He is the only one taking care of it in the store, and he says 'after thirty years, I'm still having fun doing it. I repair all watches, provided they're valuable to my customers.' In our fully digitalised times, an ancient, masterful handicraft such as this holds an almost hypnotic fascination.


DITTA GUENZATI

Like tears in the rain

'Next autumn our store, and others too, will be evicted from the Generali Insurance building, to make room for the usual trendy fashion labels. We're appealing to the owners, the Shopkeepers Associations, the city and regional authorities and the press, to prevent Milan from losing part of its heritage.' Luigi Ragno's are words we wished we'd never hear. He is the son of the man who shaped the store's philosophy decisively, adding British apparel and accessories to his fabrics trade, and becoming an international household name. We were meant to write about Milan's oldest retailer, founded in 1768. In business for 250 years, with two sites, three family ownerships and one change in its shop sign. In 1960, when the store moved to the Generali Insurance building, the historic sign was adapted to the others around it. We wished to tell the story of a lasting tradition featuring style, research and passion. But come September, it all risks being blown away. Like tears in the rain.


CORDUSIO SHIRT-MAKERS

Cherishing classic style

The shop sign for Cordusio Shirt-makers has remained the same since 1943. No capital letters, nothing loud. Almost an understatement. Showing a lofty disdain for advertising, the business doesn't have a website, it ignores social media and doesn't trust reviews. The only kind of advertising acceptable to owner Massimo Canziani (the founder's son) is word of mouth. Something which has worked very well for seventy three years. Luca, an employee, tells us the job has a close link with words, because it's based on advice, on trust and on the relationship established with the clientele over time. And a satisfied customer brings others to the store. Cordusio Shirt-makers has served many of Milan's top journalists. Where else could (for example) journalism icon Indro Montanelli turn to? 'We must resist,' says Luca. 'Nowadays there is a lot of low-quality competition. We must not listen to the siren song of fast-fashion.' Care for details, classic cuts and pleated trousers. It's great that they survive, isn't it?


COLLA OLD BARBER SHOP

A close shave

The Colla Old Barber Shop opened in 1904, but moved to the current premises in 1944. Franco Bompieri joined the second owner, Guido Mantovanini, in the 1960s. In 1975 he took over the business and affixed his own shop sign. The barber shop's reputation is confirmed by the pictures and dedications blanketing its walls, amidst early XXth century furniture and accessories. Of course! Hairdressing and shaving are taken care of here in the old-fashioned way. Trends don't matter! Mr Bompieri has trained, observed, taken notes and used his golden touch for seventy years. The products he uses in his workshop (don't dare calling it a shop!) are the fruit of artisanal expertise. They are his and his daughter Francesca's creatures. Regarding the future, Francesca has clear ideas: 'Some things will never change: respect for others and for one's work; the desire to improve constantly; humility. This establishment is the brainchild of all those who wanted it to be like this.'


PECK

Good food goes a long way

The story of Milan's most renowned deli began in 1883, when a Prague-born pork butcher, Francesco Peck, opened a shop in Via Orefici. His pork and smoked meats were so good he was appointed supplier to the Royal House. In 1918 Eliseo Magnaghi acquired the shop and moved it to Via Spadari, where it is still located. Peck became a meeting place for Milan's elite, welcoming personalities, authors and intellectuals. In the 1950s, the lunch break culture was inaugurated over Peck's counter, much more inviting than a canteen. Today's attractive shop sign was affixed by the Stoppani family (who succeeded the Grazialis) in 1997. Since 2013, the business is in the hands of Pietro Marzotto. In this temple of gastronomy, everything is high-level now: quality, choice, elegance, professionalism, politeness... and pricing. After all, Peck is one of Italian cuisine's icons, worldwide. It doesn't belong just to the Milanese.


BOCCA BOOKSTORE

Culture to stand up for

When you enter establishments such as these, the urge is to take your hat off. Even if they extend over 50 m2 only. The Bocca bookstore has been operating since 1775 and is perhaps Italy's oldest. It was opened by the Bocca brothers in Turin and had up to five branches, of which only the one in Milan's Galleria, dating back to 1930, has survived. Of its endless list of awards, we shall mention only the one which Giorgio Lodetti, the current owner, is most proud of: being designated in 2007 by FAI, the Italian Fund for the Environment, as 'Luogo del cuore', meaning a most treasured place. Nowadays the bookstore has an artistic vocation, but the works of the greatest XIXth and XXth century authors were printed here. Books that contributed to overhauling the age-old balance of society, or opened up new avenues to the development of thought. Yet (these are indeed troubled times) it risked being closed down. Thanks to Mayor Pisapia, the bookstore's city licence was renewed at a sustainable rate until 2025. And very recently it set up a partnership with art publisher Skira.


MEJANA

Back to the original

Mejana was registered at the Chamber of Commerce in 1911, as a knives and men's leather goods store. It opened in the Galleria in 1917, specialising in the sale of fountain pens and writing implements. The current proprietor succeeded his father in the 1990s, making this the fifth generation of Mejanas: a record. Mr Roberto explained to us his lucid entrepreneurial vision, which can be summarised as this. 'Nowadays, selling fountain pens is no longer sufficient. A historic shop must manufacture something of its own, featuring original local craft products, and going beyond mere retail. To our 'historic' articles, now a market niche, we added a new leather goods range. You can purchase any brand of pen online. The quality bags produced by local craftsmen exclusively for us, are instead ours'. Rather than a trend reversal, this means going back to the origins of the workshop concept. Indeed, it's a return to the original.


CENTENARI ARTISTIC PRINTS

Never lose the template

This historic shop's sign, unchanged since 1860, seems like a premonition. Actually, Centenari ('centenary' in Italian) is the founders' surname. In the year before the unification of Italy, they began retailing artistic prints, paintings, picture frames and rare objects in Milan's most distinctive central area. The store has been owned by the Comini family for fifty years. These days, Sandra, Gianni and Marcello continue to fly the flag of artistic prints (where each artwork is an original), patiently offering explanations to their customers, who still, luckily, want to know the difference between a woodcut and an etching, what is a printing press used for, what is a template, or how is an icon manufactured. 'Passion for art and craftsmanship is what keeps us alive,' says Mr Marcello. 'We don't want them to disappear.' To a lady asking for one of the wooden bas-reliefs featured in the window display some time ago, he replies: 'They were made by a South Tirol craftsman. We're out of stock, sadly.' Indeed, you won't find photocopies here.


NOLI TOBACCONIST

There is smoking... and smoking

NOLI smokers' articles. Tobacco, cigars and tax stamps. This is what is duly written on the sign taking pride of place in the window of this historic Milanese tobacconist, located right in the city's heart. The name is printed in italics, like a signature. The store has been located in Milan's Galleria since 1927, and in 1973 it was taken over by Leonardo Noli, who is still managing it today with his children Luca and Simona. Laughing, Mr Noli confesses he has never smoked. Yet, the cigars he sells are carefully selected among top Italian and overseas brands. Noli cigars are produced in Nicaragua and he considers them 'his own offspring.' Mr Leonardo defines himself as an indirect expert, as he explains patiently what a humidor is for, and the differences among the magnificent pipes on display. Perhaps it's because the job still amuses him, perhaps it's because he likes to talk about it, but in his descriptions smoking (allow us to be less than correct from a health standpoint) seems to be an art.


BERNASCONI

Silver kingdom

The current owners of the scintillating store in Via Manzoni belong to the fourth generation of the Bernasconi silversmiths, who in 1872 opened their first artisanal workshop and in 1924 were appointed 'Suppliers to the Royal House' of Savoy. The historic store's latest move, supervised by Claudio and Maurizio, brought Bernasconi to the so-called 'fashion quadrilateral', the city's central area home to the top Italian and foreign fashion brands. Over the years, Bernasconi added artisanal products made out of natural materials to its hand-crafted silver range. Ginevra, wife of Ernesto, the founder, had plenty of intuition and a keen nose for business, so the story goes. In the 1930s, inspired by the luxuriating plants growing in her Ethiopian house's garden, she had handles made of bamboo roots applied to her silver cutlery. The precious set was lost during the return journey, but the idea remained, and her great-grandsons used it for a new collection that bears Ginevra's name.


TRATTORIA TORRE DI PISA

Milanese 'dolce vita' in Tuscany

In March 1959, Romano Meacci, a genuine Tuscan, hung his trattoria sign in Via Fiori Chiari, in place of that of the Trattoria da Omero. 'Wholesome and generous fare at affordable prices', reads a framed 1962 menu. The patrons were mostly workers and employees of the nearby Brera Art Academy. Giancarlo Baghetti, then a famous F1 driver, set off an intense word-of-mouth, and with author Camilla Cederna's patronage, the trattoria started to get busy with painters, artists, designers, entrepreneurs, actors, directors, intellectuals, models and creative professionals. 'We often cater to the children of our long-standing customers,' says Ettore Gallarello, the manager and a partner in Alberto Cortesi's holding company, which acquired the trattoria about twenty years ago. 'Except for a few changes to comply with regulations, we left everything as it was. We continue to serve (Tuscan) seasonal specialties, made with fresh ingredients,' underlines Ettore. Everything is pretty much as it was then: the decor, the floors, the wholesome food. Even the sign above the entrance.


FORNARO

A story that's part of history

Fornaro opened as far back as 1945. Anita and Stefano Fornaro used to sleep inside the shop in a bombed-out street, with no windowpanes, and sold oil lamps, buckets and iceboxes: the post-war years' barest necessities. For Adriano and Lidia, things changed as the shop sign (still existing) did, in the typical way of the '60s. The third generation of owners, siblings Eleonora and Stefano, sell gift items, small electrical appliances and... how to minimize environmental impact. Bicycles for city deliveries, biodegradable plastic bags, scrapping, waste material collection, etc. It's expensive not to pollute, when you don't want to weigh on your customers. 'In our family, we breathed customer service. My grandmother was a natural in p.r., and I still know everything about everyone,' says Eleonora, amused. 'To run cookery courses we take down the shop and work on Sundays and Mondays (when the shop should close) too.' The siblings wrote a book for their business' seventieth anniversary. A story that's part of history. The Milanese are grateful.


CARTOLERIA FRATELLI BONVINI

Back to the old type

In 1909 Mr Costante Bonvini opened his stationery shop, the only one of its kind within 15 mi. Using a 'Pedalina', his first printing machine (to be followed by another two), he began to print business cards, invitations and stationery. After him, the business was run by his daughter Leila and her husband Luigi Cambieri. In 2012, old Mr Luigi was about to abandon the store to its fate, when a group of enthusiasts took over the business and set up shop again in a couple of years. Edoardo Fonti, the manager, takes us on a tour among nib collections, printing pads, inks and period pencils; then through the typography, where the machines are still functioning and old 'Rossi' boxes hold rows of drawers containing letter and punctuation types. Mr Fonti is keen to underline how all furniture has been carefully restored and made functional again. Even the 1909 shop sign, a real beauty.


ISOLA WINERY

Really happy cheers

In the heart of Milan's Chinatown there is a venue with barely enough room for a counter, a babel of bottle-laden shelves, one small table (occupied) and several customers waiting for a drink. Cheers to Giovanni Isola, who in 1896 opened a catered inn, the 'Boeucc dell'Isola'. After a succession of proprietors, at the end of the 1930s the five Isola brothers (the destiny is in the name?) arrived in Milan and acquired the Winery, marking it with the existing shop sign. Years later Giacomo, son of Secondo Isola, started in the business with his incomparable wife Milly, one of Italy's first sommeliers. In 1991 it was the current owners' turn. Luca, the son of Giovanni and Tina Sarais, is an amusing man whose business isn't serving drinks, but schooling customers in good taste and oenology. 'Isola (Italian for 'island') is a happy island,' he says. 'Here customers can learn that, behind a glass of wine, there lie different lands, cultures and people. And behind Isola's counter... there lies real passion.


BAR MAGENTA

Poets, navigators and dreamers

The Magenta Bar is 109 years old, and has stood since its founding on the corner between Corso Magenta and Via Carducci: the city's oldest bar, it's a Milanese institution. The bar has been patronised by undergraduates, artists (famous and less so), radical poets, members of the beat generation and revolutionaries, and has always been a heterogeneous venue for meetings and shared experiences. More recent patrons include yuppies, champagne socialists, heavy metal freaks, models, creative professionals, navigators and dreamers. At all hours they flock to the bar's outside tables, under the fine Liberty-style sign, or to the inner rooms with its period furniture: a gilded clock, a cashier counter, the original bar counter and sideboards. People from different walks of life, all of whom however love the bar's literary atmosphere, its waiters' curt efficiency (they know their panini and beers though) and the presence of their 'opposites'. But the times, they are a-changing. The Magenta Bar has stood firm, refusing the enticements of a fast-food chain. We hope it will avoid ever becoming too hip.


GRASSI P. HABERDASHERY STORE

It's fun to press the right buttons

The shop sign is very simple, almost retro, feeling as though it belongs to a very different kind of Milan. The Haberdashery store was opened in 1945 by Ms Piera Grassi and it is currently managed by her niece Katia Pedrini, daughter of Marco, the owner. Entering the store, you are greeted by a cheerful explosion of colours and an amazing array of goods, typical of a haberdasher's. 'To stay in business nowadays, you must cater to everybody,' Katia tells us. 'We used to work with tailors, but now it is the private customers who ask for all the colours of the rainbow. They even come from outside Milan! Amazingly, when Grandmother decided to set up shop, there were eight haberdashery stores on our street and she risked not getting a licence.' Katia smiles at the thought. 'Luckily our street address is on Via Poliziano, where there were no haberdashers then.' Of the eight haberdashery stores in the area, Grassi P.'s is the only one left, a rarity in the city of Milan. How could we manage without its incredible array of buttons?


AL PASCIÀ

Unhurried craftsmanship

The store is located in the XVIth century Casati Stampa building and was opened in 1905 by a Pavia pipe manufacturer, Mr Carati. At the time, pipe smoking edged cigarettes ten to one. 'Pascià' is dedicated to the universe of slow-smoking articles, and over time it has been managed by three families only. Since the the early '90s, the Sportelli family has expanded the range to include leather goods: tobacco and pipe holders, wallets, key holders, bags and suitcases. 'They are all high-quality items, rigorously hand-made by local craftsmen,' emphasise the Sportellis. 'We have been tempted to relocate,' says Cosimo Sportelli, the manager, 'but we'd have disappointed third and fourth-generation customers, who want us to remain where we are.' The dark wood boiserie lends the store a period feel. Only the '80s shop sign has been re-styled. A shop like this in Via Torino is a rarity these days. But it attracts a clientele increasingly fed up with shopping malls.


COVA CONFECTIONERY STORE

The salon where history was made

Pastry shop, confectionery, tea room and bar: these are the legends printed on the windows' awnings of one of Italy's most ancient and renowned coffee shops, mentioned (even) on Wikipedia. It was founded in 1817 by Antonio Cova, a Napoleonic soldier and 'tart-maker', and has been managed since 1988 by the Faccioli family. It was located next to the Scala opera house until the 1943 bombing, and in 1950 it opened in central Via Montenapoleone. Over the years, it never changed its trademark, which looks like a real coat of arms. As 'Milan's historic salon', it hosted the artists, writers, musicians, politicians and patriots who fought against the Austrians in the 'five days' uprising in 1848. It was the cultural elite's meeting place at the time, patronized by men like Mazzini, Boito, Verga and Giuseppe Verdi, pictured there in a highly famous photograph. For nearly 200 years it embodied Milan's very essence. And it continues to do so, as the undisputed venue for those who are passionate about good taste.


TRATTORIA MASUELLI

A gourmet tradition

Piedmont-born Francesco and Virginia Masuelli opened their trattoria in 1921. Their sons Giuseppe and Lorenzo took over from them in 1955, and when the La gola gourmet magazine was born (1982), the trattoria was a venue for the meetings of 'slow food' promoters. Chief among them, Gianni Sassi, who devised the trattoria's logos. Their discussions favoured the need for 'introducing home cooking in public catering'. In Giuseppe (Pino) Masuelli's interpretation, this meant 'putting your soul in the food you serve to your customers'. The secret to the trattoria's success is its unaltered fusion between traditional Lombardy and Piedmont cuisine, perfectly reflected in the ambience: high ceilings, wood-panelled walls, the odd item of original 1930s furniture and Thonet chairs. Since 1987, Massimiliano has been working as chef alongside his father Pino and Tina. Recently, Andrea (Massimiliano's son) and a Masuelli-trained chef assistant have joined the team. The preservation of tradition is assured.


C. GRASSI GLAZIER

Art's apparel

In the second half of the XIXth century a glazier and framer's shop already existed at this location, and was called Castelli. Today's fine Liberty-style shop sign dates back to 1925, when Carlo Grassi and his two sons took over the business, subsequently continued by Pietro alone. In the years that followed it was the turn of Pietro's sons: Carlo and Enrico. Nowadays, Enrico's son Marcello continues to manufacture frames in all shapes and sizes, in every style and wood type. They are carved, antiqued, gilded, silvered, lacquered or polished, using ancient techniques we weren't even aware of. 'Our sample book doesn't have enough options to bring out the value of every artwork and make every single customer happy,' explains Mr Marcello. 'This is why we customise each frame as much as possible.' Sounds simple, doesn't it? You only need a few decades' worth of experience to learn how to do it. A mere three generations of craftsmen. And an inexhaustible passion for artworks' 'apparel'.


What we have learned.
We learned about persistence, pride, passion, respect and dignity. About good grace, wisdom, humour, hope and irony. About fatalism, resistance, stories from the past and visions for the future. We are grateful to 'our' shop signs for their outbursts and bitterness (which never turns to desperation). For their wonderful Italian (not a foregone conclusion). For their language, both wry and soft-spoken. With an aftertaste that feels like withheld sarcasm, so typical of the 'real' Milanese.
License: Creative Commons Attribution No Derivatives 4.0

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